The Peace Abbey - Stonewalk Japan 2005

Andrea LeBlanc from Peaceful Tomorrows and I joined Stonewalk-Korea two weeks from the end of the pilgrimage that started from Pusan on April 29th. We left Boston on June 1st and arrived in Seoul June 2nd. The following is a brief description of our time spent each day on Stonewalk with the Japanese and Korean Stonewalkers.

June 2nd. No-one at the airport when we arrived so we found a hotel on the south side of the city to stay for the night. Took the bus and spent the night at the Savoy. Not as glamorous as the name! Listened to some music and off to bed.

June 3rd. We lost the phone number to contact the group, However we called Andy at home and he found the information in an email. We called the group and were given directions out to Sowan, a city south of Seoul. A nice young man who spoke some English helped us to find the correct stop on the train. We were told to wait for a contact outside the station. Finally someone arrived and then before long a car and more people. Some of the Japanese were returning home with a plan to come back for the last few days. We met the Korean woman, Ms. Khan, who was coordinating the journey. Hard to believe they have been on the road since April 29th. Today we visited the fortress surrounding the town built in the 1700's and met with several of the Japanese and Korean people. That night we attended a meeting with many local people who represented organizations supporting Stonewalk-Korea. Everyone had an opportunity to speak including Andrea and myself. I was overwhelmed by the testimony of a woman who was identified as one of the “comfort women.” Her story was very emotional. I had the opportunity to meet and hug her at the end of the meeting. At the end of a long day I pulled out my yoga mat and fell asleep.

June 4th. We piled into several “bongos” the SUV of Korea and went south to where the caisson was parked. Now the 2007 caisson built by the Japanese has some improvements. The storage areas are wood and the water bottle containers are sleek and simple. The body of the caisson was built on a truck chassis so it has springs under it and seems not as heavy as The Abbey caisson. The Memorial Stone is similar in size and has the same inscription with an added message of apology in Korean. As the group set up and prepared for moving out it reminded me of every other Stonewalk I've experienced. Each person seemed to have some job and together they worked as a team helping each other. Most Japanese didn't speak Korean and most Koreans didn't speak Japanese and of course Andrea and I spoke neither. As you can imagine there were times when everything was lost in translation. After a prayer at the stone we walked to a US airforce base that is causing problems for the Koreans in the area as there is constant noise from the planes as well as concern about the depleted uranium stored here. After this event we walked to Sowon and met for lunch. We eat rice at each meal and usually a soup and some other vegetables. After walking in the afternoon we ended up at the prison to meet with other people who were protesting the imprisonment of a man who took pictures of the DMZ and was on a hunger strike. Since I have viewed videos of the DMZ in the US I didn't understand why he was being kept in prison. After supper we traveled to the peace museum to meet with a professor who showed us a film about the people's revolution that had taken place in Seoul. The museum is located in the bottom floor of a building and needs a new home with more exposure and space. We left exhausted.

June 5th. We walked with the stone to a Catholic Church for the opening ceremony. There were several speakers, including us, and then we spent some time meeting the priest and other people. We pulled the stone the remainder of the day until we reached Seoul. We walked along a six lane highway with no escort--down the middle lane. These people are as fearless as all the Stonewalkers I've met. At the end of the day we found out we were going to the spa not only for a bath but to sleep. This was an adventure I'll tell about in person.

June 6th. We pulled the stone to the War Memorial--a huge building with tanks, airplanes and other military relics on the outside. We had an opportunity to talk about transforming the machinery of war into school buildings for children and programs that teach peace and nonviolence. There were several children in the group. We moved through a very busy and congested city to the Japanese Embassy where the “Comfort Women” were holding a protest. They have been doing this for the past 6 years. The caisson was pulled right up front and the many people gathered there had an opportunity to view the stone. Two journalists from Germany were part of the group and asked about the stone and the purpose. I told the story and then engaged them about Gernika. They had never heard what happened with the bombing there, which seems to be the case with many young people. The past crimes and suffering of war are sometimes forgotten. The Memorial Stone is so important. At the close of the protest three of the comfort women walked in front of the caisson and we marched through the busiest tourist area. It was a great Stonewalk moment--and Rev. Choi chose to do it without police permission (sounds familiar). Many people talked with us and expressed their appreciation for Stonewalk. We then piled into the bongos to take an hour ride outside the city to where some of the comfort women live. We arrived late and were told we were in charge of cooking supper. Someone prepared rice balls and started the grill. Salad looked good to me. I had no plans to join a meeting but chose to look for a shower and toilet.

June 7th. Morning was spent in the museum at Sharing House learning about the Japanese policy during the war of setting up stations where women who had been kidnapped were taken to serve as sex slaves for the Japanese soldiers. The documentation is here in many papers and pictures along with the stories of the women. How easy it would be for the Japanese government to admit this crime and apologize and perhaps erase some of the hatred held by the Korean people. We returned to Seoul to be given a tour of the Army base located in the center of the city. We viewed it from all sides and listened while we learned about the contamination of the water by the oil leakage as well as the space taken from an already overpopulated city. Koreans want the US out. We had supper and stayed overnight at a church in Seoul. Everyone was welcoming, friendly and eager to try to talk with us.

June 8th. We were introduced to Rev. Choi, a wonderful minister who offered us shelter, food and kindness. We all stayed here for the night. Located high on the top of a hill the women slept in one area and the men in the other. Rev. is a happy person with a servant's heart. He prepared breakfast for us and introduced us to some of the men in the refuge center in the upper floor. We had a little time to walk around before we headed for the temple. There was a large human rights award ceremony taking place there. The person being honored this year was the man in prison Lee Shi-oo. We had all signed a petition for his release and after many of the monks spoke we presented it to his wife. Afterwards we walked across the street to a building for a reception. Jun -san took Andrea and I out of the line and into a private back room where there were a few people. The monk who has been in prison many times for his protests talked with us through an interpretor. The whole setting was very interesting and I found out that 100 men were in prison because they refused to serve in the army. Also I talked with several of the guests and found one woman who was English speaking from the Netherlands who connected me with the human rights director. We then split up into two groups one group went for tea and the other along with the head monk Shugei Shoni went?

June 9th. We started out walking from the Rev's place up over the mountain to the other side to meet the caisson and begin a long day to remember the end of the occupation called the June 10th Democracy Struggle honoring those patriots who died for this cause. We moved the stone to the center of Seoul to join a human chain for peace. The labor organizers had set up a speakers forum where people gathered to listen to the music and presentations. We received 2 flags one for S, Korea and one for unified Korea. Most people we meet want unification and it seems what is keeping this from happening is the power of the United States and China for their own self motivated reasons. We then moved the stone to the park that holds the many stone relief monuments honoring the people who rose up in a nonviolent movement to oppose the Japanese occupation. Among the reliefs was a scene with many women who came together under the guidance of a special woman called the Joan of Arc of Korea. Many of the scenes depicted the Japanese soldiers killing the unarmed citizens. After sharing a lunch in the park we moved on to the Seodaemun prison museum along busy roads and difficult hilly terrain. We parked the caisson inside the walls and then began the tour. This prison was where Koreans were brought who resisted the Japanese government. There were vivid displays of the torture and the weapons of torture used on people. It is not hard to understand why so many Koreans hold a dislike for the Japanese and yet it only makes this pilgrimage of apology so more important. After the tour we went by car to the Academy House in the mountain area. We stayed here for the night. Andrea, Matsuko and I put our mats in a small room and hurried to take a shower Korean style.

June 10th. Meetings planned for the day. The Japanese professor from Saga prefecture who was with us in 2005 joined us along with more Japanese and Koreans. Our morning meeting was more informational. In the afternoon each person was able to speak about some aspect of Stonewalk. We also were shown the video that is being put together by a Korean filmmaker. The interesting question I was asked about the Stone was to explain its spiritual significance. I recalled how many people come and touch the Stone and remember those people whose memories and spirits are carried in the Stone. Other people commented on this aspect and how the Stone had a certain power that pulled you to it. Interesting conversation and long day. Supper together and then the word that we would spend the night and leave the next day early in the morning.

June 11th. Piled into the bongos and headed back to the Stone at the prison. Took many pictures and then local politicians joined us for an opening ceremony. I suggested that they pull up front just a short way…good photo op. A very long pulling day. Down the middle of a six lane highway without an escort. I was very amazed at the energy and the wonderful comradery of both groups. We pulled out of Seoul heading north. We parked the caisson in a lot covered the stone and went on to the city hall. We went back to Academy House for the night.

June 12th. In the morning we were greeted with a big bus that would be carrying us on as it was less expensive than using the bongos as we were now outside of the city. Went to the stone and caisson and began pulling again to the next city. Another long day on the road and HOT! Sometime around noon we stopped for a rest. The Rev. went into a building and came out motioning us to come in. It turned out to be a senior center with women playing cards and men watching TV. Once we came in everything changed. Coffee was served..people started talking and telling stories. The gentleman who was the president told of being held captive by the Japanese. When he learned what we were doing he was very moved. Then the group started singing and dancing. Of course we participated and enjoyed the fun. One of the people who had gone ahead by car came running in asking what happened to us,,oh well off again. After parking the caisson we headed out to a farmhouse about and hour away and we were shown all the US bases along the way. A meal was prepared for supper. After supper the folks started to pass around a kind of sake Korean drink. The idea was to drink it all at once. The monks participated as well as many of the Japanese men. Afterwards the group started singing. The Korean farmers sang emotional songs and then asked the Japanese to join in singing some songs…and of course they wanted the Americans to do the same. Andrea said “I can't sing” Well neither can I but the Rev. said sing a song for children. So I did. We thought we were leaving however surprise they decided we would stay here overnight. We waited until everyone finished singing and sharing conversation and then dropped onto the floor and slept.

June 13th. Left and walked to the memorial for two girls who were killed by American tanks while walking to school. This day was the 5th anniversary of the tragedy. The local people are asking for the military to leave this area. We stopped to pray and I copied the last stanza of this poem written by a Korean poet. In memory of Shem and Shen, two 15yr old girls killed here.

“Ah Balsam Flowers Are Gone” by Song-Woon Do Ki Jong
But girls
What's the use of resentment?
Forgive all of us and go to heaven
The place where there's no pain and sadness
Forget all the things that happened here
And rest in peace.

After on to the caisson and moving into the next city nearer to Panmunjom. The bus took us to the Mari Free School where we learned about the free school movement much like charter schools and Waldorf schools. They cost about $600. per month. The young people met with us after supper and asked the Japanese questions about Stonewalk. Shower bed and up by 5:30.

June 14th. Pulled the stone from Paju to Monson the next town close to our final destination. We left the caisson at a gymnasium and went to the spa (public bath) and on to a very interesting village called Heyri. This is an intentional community of artists, musicians and people involved in cultural change. The houses are all different and in a symbiotic relationship with the environment. We had a tour of the community and met in the community hall. Everyone participated in songs and I gave my rendition of “Lets go on a bear hunt” We stayed with a woman who is a classical pianist who played in the White House for President Clinton.

June 15th. Back to the caisson moving the stone to the peace park in Kimjingak for the closing ceremony. As we got closer to the DMZ area there were less cars and trafffic until we were alone on the road. The peace park has several large statues and an observatory where people go to look at the north side. We place the caisson directly in front of a statue remembering the people of the north and south. The closing ceremony involved speeches, prayers, the placing of flowers on the stone and two artists one who sang and the other who performed a traditional Korean dance around the theme of “if stones could cry”, taken from The Peace Abbey website. It was very emotional for all of us. A young woman came up to me and asked what was happening. She was obviously western and identified herself as American from Louisiana stationed in Korea. We talked briefly and as we parted she told me she would be deployed to Iraq for the second time and we held hands and shared a prayer.

June 16th. Today several of the Japanese left for the north. Others went to the airport to go home. Before leaving we had a meeting to discuss Yoko and her situation. Rev. Choi felt she should come to Korea and talk with the press and clear up any misunderstandings. After the meeting the Rev., Andrea, Jun-san and myself went to visit the Changdeokgung Palace. On the way the Rev. picked up his 98 year old mother who joined us. She was quite a remarkable woman who still gets around quite well with a walker. Today I made contact with Young Hoon Kwaak and we set a time to meet at a restaurant nearby. He greeted us warmly and ordered a special cool dessert with berries and ice and what looked like corn flakes on top. He was very excited about Stonewalk-Korea but disappointed that we did not have enough media coverage. He introduced us to his secretary who took down all the contact numbers and promised to help to get the stone placed in the peace park outside Panmunjom. We all were invited to dinner at another minister's house. His wife has been a great help and is a warm and friendly person. We all call her the happy lady. After dinner we all walked to a nice coffee and tea shop with lots of books and music. Most Koreans like coffee better than tea probably in opposition to the Japanese. Late home and sleep!

June 17th. Church with Rev. Choi and his wife who is also a minister. Followed by a lunch and more discussion about Yoko and what the next step should be. Time to go to the bus and then on to the airport. Saying goodbye to Rev. Choi was difficult. He is a very amazing man who loves people and has worked so hard for Stonewalk-Korea. His idea is that the Americans, the Koreans and the Japanese work together for Stonewalk-Vietnam. Perhaps the Memorial Stone will draw us to another journey of apology and there will be more Stones created to honor civilians. Only time will tell.